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Echeveria lilacina

Echeveria lilacina

The Echeveria Lilacina, has as its common name, Echeveria Fantasma and is a species of succulents of the  crassulaceae family .

Beautiful succulent plant , native to Central America , is widespread and is highly esteemed as an ornamental plant for its beauty and ease of cultivation.

The genus Echeveria belongs to the family of the Crassulaceae , that vast group of succulent plants native to Central America (especially Mexico ) and North-West America , characterized by strong climatic oscillations between day and night .

Its particularity is the fleshy leaves , rather ovate and arranged in a rosette ( artichoke type ), very compact.

The color is varied from intense green , to pale blue , to gray-blue, to pink- green.

The flowers develop on a long stem that grows from the center of the rosette. They are usually very striking, in the shape of lanterns, red or pink and with yellow margins . It blooms from spring and throughout the summer .

The Echeverias reach some 150 species, which are distinguished by their rosettes formed by leaves of generally bluish-green hue.


This species is slow growing and tolerant to drought.

How are the flowers of Echeveria Lilacina.                                                

The flowers are very showy and look reddish, but relatively small, about 15 cm tall. The flowers are pale pink to pale red orange or coral.

Echeveria Lilacina in bloom
Echeveria Lilacina in bloom

The flowering period extends from the following winter to the beginning of spring.

Echeveria Lilacina in bloom

How to care for Echeveria Lilacina.

Cultivation techniques

It is often thought that succulent plants , although neglected, grow equally well. This is not true because if you do not take the necessary care, you can vegetate better and not simply survive. So, if we give these plants the necessary care, they will reward us with spectacular growth.

Considering the fact that they are in the general trade rather hybrids than the original plants, therefore plants that have been “artificially” achieved to offer a greater aesthetic appearance, their climatic adaptation in a house demands a lot of light in all the seasons of the year and also the direct sun , but not in the hottest hours of the summer days when it is preferable to protect them.

The optimum summer temperatures of culture oscillate between 15-21 ° C but also tolerate higher temperatures. Winter temperatures are preferable not to fall below 7 ° C. If temperatures fall around these values, move it to a hotter and brighter place. They are plants that want mostly air,so it is good to give them fresh air in summer by placing them near an open window .

The leaves of many species of Echeveria are covered by a dusty substance : it is necessary to be careful not to remove it since it is epicuticular wax, a substance that protects them from dehydration .


An important aspect to keep in mind is that they should absolutely wet their leaves and better leave standing water between the leaves. Since the plant grows very compact and tends to occupy all the space of the pot, it is better to water by immersion, that is, leave the pot a few minutes in immersion in water so that the soil absorbs the necessary moisture . In any case the risks have to be carried out when the surface of the substrate is dry. A good practice is to wet the substrate well, then let all excess water drain and then wait for the soil Be dry before proceeding with the next watering. During the autumn – winter period the risks must be reduced significantly and if the temperatures sink, decrease them further until they are even suspended. It is necessary to carefully avoid leaving stagnant water in the portamacetas since the waterlogging is not tolerated in any way and would lead to the rotting of the roots .


Like all plants , it needs to be transplanted periodically, in the spring , if the roots have occupied all the space at their disposal. For transplantation use a specific compost for cactus ( land of cactus) which will link sandof river thick or perlite in the ratio 1: 1 (1 part compost for cactus and 1 part river sand or perlite) returning the land more porous, facilitating the faster runoff of irrigation waters . Be careful to place pieces of clay in the drainage hole cooked so that the soil or the roots do not obstruct the drainage hole since the flooding is lethal for this plant.

We recommend using terracotta and not plastic because they allow land perspire and thus quickly reduce the moisture of the soil . In addition, the pots have to be wider than deep because the root system tends to develop in width rather than depth. The first irrigation after the transplant do it by immersion. Remember that if you have trimmed the roots you need to wait before watering at least a week to allow time for the wounds to heal.


From spring and throughout the summer , fertilize every 3-4 weeks by supplying a liquid fertilizer to be diluted in the irrigation water , reducing the doses in relation to what is indicated in the fertilizer . From autumn and throughout the winter it is necessary to suspend them because the plant goes to vegetative rest, so you do not have to give fertilizers that would accumulate in the ground creating a harmful environment for the roots .

To ensure optimal growth , supply a balanced fertilizer equally on nitrogen , phosphorus and potassium (eg 30:30:30). Also, make sure that the fertilizer also always contains micro elements such as iron(Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc(Zn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), magnesium (Mg), all important for proper growth of the plant.


If you are assured the right amount of light , water and fertilizer , as indicated in the corresponding paragraphs , you will have beautiful blooms. The plant usually begins to bloom in March and continues throughout the summer , until September .


The plant is not pruned. The leaves that are slowly drying or spoiling are simply eliminated to prevent them from becoming a vehicle for parasitic diseases . Care must be taken that the utensil used for cutting is clean and disinfected, preferably to the flame, to avoid infecting the tissues .

Plagues and diseases

Like all succulent plants , they are not particularly subject to diseases . In your case, it may be more correct to talk about physiopathies, that is, diseases due not to pathogens but because of poor cultivation techniques .

  • The stem of the plant rots.

This symptom indicates too many risks.

Remedy: unfortunately, if the whole plant is presented in this way, there is nothing else to do. If instead some stems are not attacked yet, you can try to save the plant. Remove the plant with all the ground bread from the pot and leave it in the air so that the soil dries quickly. Control the roots and eventually eliminate the dead ones by cutting them at least 1 cm over the damaged area with sharp and disinfected scissors , as well as dead stems. Spray the cutting surface with a powder broad-spectrum fungicide and then transplant it. Wait at least two weeks before watering again and especially adopt, for the future, greater caution in the amount of water you supply.

  • The plant withers and loses leaves .

Commonly this symptom is due to too low temperatures or cold air currents.

Remedy: place the plant in a more ideal position.

  • The green parts of the plant discolor and appear as emptied.

This symptom is usually due to too little risk. If we spend many months without watering the plant, especially in summer , the plant exhausts all the water contained in the tissues and therefore appears as emptied.

Remedy: not always if this stage is reached it is possible to recover the plant, in any case, it is worth making an attempt to pay a little more attention to our plant with adequate risks.

  • Brown spots on the underside of the leaves.

The spots on the underside of the leaves could mean a cochineal infestation . These are very harmful insects that can be of two types: brown cochineal and cottony cochineal.

To be sure, we suggest using a magnifying glass and observe. They are characterized by having in the first case a kind of protective shield , of a dark and consistent color , in the second case a white coat of cotton.

Compare with the photo next. They are characteristics, there can be no error. Also if you try to remove them with a fingernail , they come out easily.

Remedy: Remove them with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or if the plant is large and potted, it can be washed with water and neutral soap rubbing very delicately with a sponge to remove the parasites.

Afterwards, the plant should be rinsed very well to remove all the soap. For larger and more planted plants sky open, you can use products specific chemicals. The treatments with insecticide santicocillin, to be more effective, should be directed against larvae , which are more sensitive than the adult.

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